Chestnut Soup

Living in Brussels means being on the doorstep of half a dozen countries. Within a couple of hours, the international train connections can take you to Amsterdam, London, Paris, Luxembourg and Germany.

Or even further.

After lying dormant for years (no pun intended) the European night trains have made a comeback: you can now go to sleep in Brussels and wake up in Vienna. That's one way to stock up on Mozartkugeln!

One of the most scenic train journeys in Europe can be found going between Brussels and Frankfurt, and more specifically between Mainz and Koblenz. This one skirts the Rhine river valley, snaking its way past picture-postcard German villages with timber-framed houses, hilltop castles, vineyards and boat cruises. This is train travel at its most enchanting, especially in autumn when the forested valley slopes turn different shades of red, orange and yellow.

It was in late 2016 that I hopped off this train just outside Mainz into biting cold and rain. A few hours later I was warming up with a local Weißbier as well as a hearty bowl of chestnut soup. Perfect autumn fare.

Ingredients (4 people)

500g chestnuts

1 large white or yellow onion (chopped)

1 leek (chopped, ends removed)

2 sticks celery (cleaned, chopped)

2 carrots (peeled, chopped)

4 strips thick bacon

1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp paprika

1L chicken or vegetable stock

Salt and pepper

Optional: 1 tbs heavy cream, chives (garnish)

Preparation (1.5hrs)

1. Prep the chestnuts. Using a sharp knife, carefully score the chestnuts with an X on one side of the shell, making sure not to pierce the nut inside.

2. Add the chestnuts to a pot of unsalted boiling water for 20min. Take off the heat and peel the chestnuts one by one, removing both the thick outer shell and skin (these can be tricky to remove and take a bit of time). The peeled nuts should be yellow, waxy and smooth. Set aside.

3. In a large saucepan on medium-high heat, cook the bacon (no need to add butter or oil as the fat from the bacon will melt and prevent burning). Add the onion, carrot, celery and leek. Cook for 10min.

4. Add the nuts and stock. Simmer uncovered on medium-low for 30min.

5. Blend the contents in a food processor. Re-add to the saucepan on low heat and reduce until you reach your desired soup consistency. Add the spices and salt and pepper to taste.

6. Serve.

TIP 1: Cold chestnuts will be more difficult to peel so keep them in the hot water until peeling.

TIP 2: Instead of boiling the chestnuts, put them in the oven at 180C (30min) for a roasted chestnut flavour.